Today, I surfed for the first time

      2 Comments on Today, I surfed for the first time

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Well, I went out into the water to surf…  But I was horrible of course.   It’s going to take some time.

But I was able to stand up more than a few times, and I think I can get the hang of it. 

Water felt great – wetsuits are amazing…  Was a very refreshing and exhausting endeavor.   Using muscles that often get neglected, the time in the water was exercise indeed.  

Glory to God.  

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About Jeremy

Glad to have a second chance on life, by God's grace.

2 thoughts on “Today, I surfed for the first time

  1. MGilliam

    My first time was the Baja peninsula and I got up 25 times and surfed in until I just stepped off. I was thinking I was a badass at that point being the only girl who could. But then the wave, oh the mighty wave that comes and lets you know who’s boss and throws you to the bottom so violently you lose your board off your ankle and see it about to hit your friend in the front teeth. (Glad he can duck) I still loved every minute! Even the rush!

    Reply
    1. Jeremiah Post author

      Super cool! Thank you for writing. I’m impressed with the 25 times! Yes, it’s incredible how truly powerful the waves can be and they’re not always indicated by their size. It’s amazing being out there. I love just seeing the pelicans fly by, maintaining a clean 3 inch distance from the surface of the water… truly gorgeous.

      Reply

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